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The story of florariums begins in the 18th century.

Dr. Nathaniel Ward — a botanist, enthusiast, and collector — watched plants weaken and die in London’s polluted air and envisioned a vessel that could protect living greenery from the city’s harsh environment.

After studying plant growth in enclosed spaces, Ward concluded that a stable microclimate was essential. He created a small portable wooden greenhouse with glazed walls, later adding a lid and a door for easier care.

The invention became known as the Wardian case. These glass structures made it possible to transport exotic plants to Europe — and soon they spread around the world.

Over time, glass cases became a mark of taste and status: they appeared in shop windows, refined salons, and elegant homes. They were no longer purely practical — they became part of interior aesthetics.

At the turn of the 19th–20th centuries, stained glass brought a new wave of inspiration. The technique was refined by American artist and glass designer Louis Comfort Tiffany and artist John La Farge.

A method where each glass piece is wrapped in thin copper foil and soldered with tin allowed not only flat panels but also delicate three-dimensional forms — graceful, yet durable.

Florariums were once crafted only by trained masters. Even today, despite their visual lightness, they remain complex objects where precision matters — and where true beauty is born from balance between nature and design.

A florarium today is not simply glass and plants. It is a living composition in which every detail matters.

Each Velvet Noire florarium is a union of imagination, craftsmanship, and quiet warmth — that is why plants feel at ease inside, and the space receives a sense of harmony and living presence.

Florariums are loved for their stable inner microclimate and minimal care. In most cases, care comes down to rare but regular watering — about once every two to three weeks. Florariums with stabilized moss require no care at all while keeping a naturally “alive” look.

For florariums, people typically choose resilient, low-maintenance plants. Depending on the concept, a composition can resemble tropical greenery or a calm, stone-like desert landscape. You can assemble a florarium at a workshop or create one at home by following a professional guide — we explain what you need.

Florariums are usually divided into two groups: open and closed.

In open florariums, moisture gradually leaves the vessel, so watering is required — yet still less often than for the same plants in a regular pot.

In closed florariums, a self-sustaining microclimate forms: moisture evaporates from soil and leaves, condenses on the glass, and returns back down — mimicking the natural water cycle. Such systems may require no watering at all, or only extremely rarely.

For a first florarium, fittonia, forest green moss, and selaginella work beautifully. In closed systems, ferns (such as asplenium and maidenhair), mosses, ficus varieties (including ficus microcarpa), coffee plant, asparagus fern, peace lily, spider plant, parlor palm, and certain succulents can coexist harmoniously.

In general, choose compact, durable plants that remain decorative in a humid environment. The key is balance: enough light, stable humidity, and a comfortable temperature — that’s what keeps the composition vibrant and refined.

Assembly begins with the base layers. First, place stones at the bottom — they create structure and rhythm and support the layers above.

Next comes soil: you may alternate it with colored sand to create elegant multi-toned layers, or keep it uniform for a more minimal mood.

Then plant your succulents, thinking about placement and visual harmony. Finally, finish the surface with soil, colored sand, stones, or stabilized moss. Moss adds depth, softness, and a natural sense of completion — the detail that makes the florarium feel truly finished.

Stained glass has long been considered a symbol of refinement and status.

For centuries, it remained a complex and expensive form of décor created by skilled masters. Classic medieval stained glass was assembled with lead came and placed in cathedral windows. The process demanded time, precision, and true craftsmanship.

Colored transparent glass was carefully painted with sacred scenes and symbolic imagery. Light passing through such compositions filled the space with a unique atmosphere — solemn, deep, almost sacred.

By the end of the 19th century, stained glass entered a new era. American designer, artist, jeweler, and entrepreneur Louis Comfort Tiffany (1848–1933) introduced a fundamentally different technique that later carried his name.

The Tiffany method joins small pieces of colored glass wrapped in thin copper foil and soldered together. This made it possible to create more delicate, complex, and even three-dimensional forms — something traditional lead techniques could not achieve.

In the Art Nouveau period, stained glass moved beyond sacred architecture into residential and commercial interiors. It appeared not only in windows, but also in doors, ceilings, niches, and furniture. Tiffany-style lamps, sconces — and florariums — became especially valued.

Tiffany stained glass requires near-jewelry precision: every seam matters, every line shapes the final piece. That is why stained-glass florariums bring a truly exclusive, signature presence to a space — elegant, rare, and unmistakable.

In every Velvet Noire candle, we intentionally use only natural wax — with no paraffin added. This choice affects not only appearance, but also how the candle burns, how the fragrance unfolds, and how the atmosphere feels in your space.

Paraffin is a petroleum-derived product. It is common in mass production due to affordability and stability, yet its burn behavior is different: it can heat more aggressively and may feel less delicate in scent performance.

Natural wax (plant-based or other natural origin) burns softer and more evenly. It melts gradually, does not overload the air, and lets fragrance reveal itself calmly — layer by layer. This is the kind of quiet warmth we consider essential for an interior candle.

The difference is not always immediate, but it becomes clear over time. A natural-wax candle does not dominate — it accompanies the atmosphere, leaving a clean, balanced impression.

Our fragrances are equally intentional. We use only certified fragrance oils that comply with IFRA standards — meaning controlled composition, safe concentrations, and alignment with international requirements for fragrance components in candles.

Natural wax and carefully selected scents create candles where nothing is accidental. We craft light and fragrance to feel refined, calm, and genuinely premium.

A candle is not only a source of light. It is mood, rhythm, and a sense of space.

In contemporary interiors, candles are no longer “just décor.” They shape atmosphere — warm, intimate, alive. Soft flame changes how a room is perceived: it adds depth, smooths lines, and brings a calm pause into everyday life.

Candle aesthetics live in details: a form that feels effortless, a color that supports the palette, and a glow that never overwhelms — only gently settles on surfaces.

A candle acts as an accent: it does not dominate, it completes. On a coffee table, in a lounge corner, near books and textiles — it becomes part of a composition that tells a coherent story.

Even the act of lighting a candle matters: a small ritual, a moment to slow down and feel your home. The flame may not redesign the room — but it transforms the mood, making it warmer and more personal.

For Velvet Noire, aesthetics are balance: form, light, and feeling. Each candle is created with its presence in real space in mind — quiet, beautiful, and perfectly in place.

A candle unfolds not only through materials, but through the way you use it. Small nuances define how evenly it burns, how cleanly the fragrance performs, and how the light feels in your space.

On the first burn, give the candle enough time: let the wax melt evenly across the entire surface. This helps prevent tunneling and supports a beautiful, stable burn later.

Before each lighting, trim the wick slightly. A shorter wick keeps the flame neat, reduces soot, and allows fragrance to feel smoother and more refined.

Extinguishing matters too. Blowing out a candle can leave smoke. A snuffer is ideal — or gently dip the wick into melted wax and return it upright to preserve a clean scent experience.

Sculptural (mold) candles are different from container candles. As they burn, their shape transforms — and the formation of “walls” or raised edges is normal. It is not a flaw, but part of their nature as an object.

These candles are made not only for melting, but for observing. Light emphasizes texture, wax changes slowly, and each stage becomes part of the aesthetic.

A candle is not for rushing. It is for pauses and quiet rituals — and it always gives something back: steady light, soft fragrance, and harmony.

Craftsmanship in candle making starts not with the shape — it starts with understanding the material.

For Velvet Noire, learning is not a quick workshop or a set of random videos. It is a structured transfer of experience — built through practice, observation, mistakes, and refinement. Our courses are for those who want to create consciously, not mechanically.

The basic container-candle course builds a strong foundation: materials and tools, wax types, wicks, colorants, temperature ranges, and the most common beginner issues. Practice is central — from first pour to reading the result and gaining confidence.

The “Mold Candles” course is the next level. It is designed for those who want to work with form as a sculptural object. You’ll learn wax selection for molds, melt and set temperatures, fragrance and color integration, and wick choice for a clean, elegant flame.

Separate modules cover molds: types, preparation, care, and details that shape the final result — surface quality, crisp lines, avoiding cracks and deformation. We also break down the most frequent mistakes and how to prevent them: from air bubbles to wick shifting.

Each course includes practical assignments, a detailed step-by-step video lesson, and proven studio tips: how to achieve a clean glossy surface, create marble effects, and get consistent results.

Classes are held online in a closed format — you can learn at your own pace and revisit materials anytime. A certificate is provided upon completion, and access to the content remains unlimited.

For us, mastery is not speed and not quantity. It is precision, respect for materials, and attention to detail — the kind that turns a candle into a refined, intentional object.

A stabilized moss florarium can keep its refined look for up to 5 years — and often longer — when placed correctly and treated with care.

Stabilized moss is a natural material that undergoes a special eco-friendly treatment. During stabilization, the plant’s natural fluids are replaced with a preserving solution, allowing moss to retain its appearance, softness, and texture without watering or active care.

Unlike living plants, stabilized moss does not grow and does not need soil, water, or sunlight. However, maintaining stable indoor conditions helps preserve its ideal feel and look.

We recommend placing it in soft, indirect light. Direct sun and proximity to heat sources may lead to drying and reduced elasticity.

Avoid excessive humidity and any direct contact with water — too much moisture can affect the surface and texture over time.

With the right conditions, a stabilized moss florarium stays clean, decorative, and visually “alive” for years — offering natural balance without maintenance.

Caring for succulents is calm and rewarding — minimal effort, maximum visual harmony.

Succulents store water in their leaves, stems, or roots, which makes them resilient and ideal for interior compositions and florariums.

Watering should be gentle: succulents dislike excess moisture, and standing water can cause root rot. The best approach is to water rarely but thoroughly, letting the soil dry completely between waterings. Drainage is essential so moisture does not linger around the roots.

Light is key. Succulents prefer bright, indirect light and do well on bright windowsills. If natural light is limited, supplemental lighting can help.

Use a well-draining soil mix designed for succulents. Comfortable temperature is generally 18–25°C (64–77°F), avoiding strong drafts and sudden temperature changes.

For a neat look, remove dried leaves occasionally. During active growth, a succulent fertilizer may be used in moderation as directed.

With the right care, succulents keep their shape and color for a long time, adding balance and natural calm to your space.

Atmosphere is something you can’t see — but you can always feel. It’s why we choose light, texture, fragrance, and form: to fill a space with meaning, not just objects.

Velvet Noire candles and florariums are not decor “for decor’s sake.” They are created from the idea of slowing down — the moment when a house becomes a personal sanctuary: for silence, warmth, and inner balance.

Soft flame changes a room’s perception: it warms the light, softens edges, and makes time feel slower. Fragrance becomes an invisible presence — never intrusive, always refined and deep.

Florariums add a sense of living equilibrium. Even in minimalist interiors, they become a point of calm — where the eye rests and thoughts settle. A small world in glass that exists in its own rhythm, beyond outside noise.

Atmosphere is never accidental. It’s made of details working together: light, materials, proportions, textures, and the quiet language of scent. That’s why every Velvet Noire composition is thoughtfully designed — to complement, not dominate.

We believe true luxury is not loudness or excess. It is comfort that stays with you. An atmosphere you want to live in — and return to, again and again.